Common Questions

 It promotes your pet's wellness! The groomer sees every part of your dog's body and can notice irregularities in skin and behavior.

 A regular came into the salon one day and we noticed the dog refused to sit. This might not sound unusual but in the past, it was hard to get the dog the stand on the table. We alerted the owner and ended up saving the dog from a severe Urinary Tract infection that could have been fatal if untreated. Many of my coworkers and I have been able to catch cuts, skin conditions, and bumps just by blow-drying dogs, as we see every inch of their skin.

 Every pet has a different nail growth rate based on age and nutrition. The better their nutrition, the more they grow, and the older the dog, the slower they grow. I always recommend starting at 3 weeks, although 2 is more typical of healthy growth. I trim my cats' nails every week. Everyone is different. If you hear the clicking on the floor, then your pet probably needs a nail trim.

If you are trying to get the overall length of the nail shorter and make the "Quick" (nail nerve) retract, then trim often and consistently.

Some dogs, like labs and bulldogs, really dig into the ground when they walk. These types of dogs might not need all their nails done. It is important to always keep an eye on their dewclaws and ask the person doing the nails if all have to be done. Even the best groomer makes mistakes!

Desensitization is key! It is important to start slow and be patient. Know what motivates your pet, whether it's toys, treats, or play, and always reward. It took my rescue dog years until she was a pro with the Dremel. Sometimes you have to be more stubborn than they are.

Nails: If your pup has a hard time with nails, start small and begin touching their paws more and more each week. If the Dremel is a trigger for your dog, begin with getting them used to the noise by just turning on an electric toothbrush and rewarding them with play or treats. Graduate by placing the non-brush side of the toothbrush on their paws and rewarding them.

Dryer: Consider placing cotton balls in your dog's ears and purchasing a "Happy Hoodie" to mellow the sound. Some clients have also had the dog in the same room as them while doing their own hair. With puppies, I always put the dryer on my own face to show them it's nothing to worry about. Using the dryer is important for getting hair, dirt, and matting out, as well as making your pup smell much fresher. I have been able to train my cat to tolerate the blow dryer by staying a good distance away and each time testing how close I can get with the help of treats.

Face Trims: Lots of puppies get nervous with scissors near their face. I recommend first using your finger, placing it straight out over the corner of their eyes, right where that hair grows, and moving it around lightly. The more they get used to that, the more you can lightly hold the chin hair to get them used to how a groomer might need to hold their head. Many groomers use 6, 7, or even 8-inch shears and need to hold their heads to ensure their safety. 

Clippers: If clippers have proven to be a challenge, then start by just turning on an electric toothbrush in the same room and rewarding them. Once they can tolerate the same room, then try putting it on their side for just a second and rewarding them. The goal is to slowly increase the exposure to the point of them being indifferent to you putting it over their entire body. Some dogs find the feet especially triggering, so don't start there.

Every Dog has a different schedule depending on their age, health, and nutrition. The key is finding what works for you and your pet. If brushing is a sacred bonding time for you and your pup, you could probably go longer between cuts. For dogs with long hair or coats, 4 to 8 weeks is a great place to start for haircuts. Between haircuts, it is important to think about nail trims, paw pad shaves, and sanitary trims. I often see pawpads very tightly matted if not shaved between grooms. 

 Double-coated and long-haired dogs should be brushed out with a comb, de-matting rake, and a slicker brush. While short coats only need a rubber brush, maybe a SleekEZ or furminator.  People always underestimate the power of a metal comb, and it is essential, especially if you have a poodle/poodle mix. If you can brush your double-coated dog or cat with a flea comb and no hair comes out, you will impress any groomer. Slicker brushes are great for breaking up small tangles, and combs are going to tell you where brushing is needed.

 My favorite slicker brushes are the Chris Christianson Big G for long hair and the Big K for thick double coats. The Ryan Pet Supplies de-matting rake is my favorite for de-matting and de-shedding. The rake needs to be used in combination with a comb to ensure you aren't cutting the top coat or pulling on the hair too much. Click on the names of the brushes to be taken to the website.

 White dogs, especially, get a brown discoloration around their mouth and eyes. In my experience, goat's milk is the key! Feeding your animal a little goat's milk can actually clear up the brown discoloration. Why? I have no idea, but I can tell you it works for my cat and has worked for many of my clients. Worried about the price? The solution is simple, instead of purchasing fresh goat's milk from a specialty pet store, you can buy the powdered stuff for much cheaper. I got mine from Chewy! I have met some dogs that get a bacterial infection that looks similar to simple staining, so always consult a vet.